Proportionately problematic pants and Cate makes another creative appearance

I need pants / trousers / slacks - whatever you want to call them.

So I thought that I would try Patternmaker where you put your measurements into the computer and it spits out a pattern tailored to your own measurements. Easy peasy lemon squeezy - only minimal adjustments needed - if at all......????!!!!

Here is my problem... *sigh*

This is me...

So Patternmaker - along with 95% of pant manufacturers - thinks that I have large legs to fit my large stomach.

Here is what it came up with. I have sacrificed my favourite RTW black slacks to use to compare. They were starting to get threadbare so I desperately need new ones.

Notice that the waist measurements are good - there is only seam allowance and elastic casing allowance showing.

Pretty good for a computer program ... Now it all goes pear shaped --- hmmmm literally pear shaped.

Now this is just the back - the front is the same which means that the legs would be way to big - not to mention the crotch - what is with that?? Hate to think the impact of that!! I think I would end up looking like a homie (male gang member).

Anyway - I have spent my short sewing history making patterns bigger - now I thought about making this smaller but then read Sham's account of her Linda Pants.

Now Shams doesn't have near as much difference between her waist and thighs as I do - but the thought is the same. Why try to grade down the whole pattern based on my waist measurement - why not just add room for the tum?

Hence it began.

First I ordered a StyleArc Linda in size 24 (which believe me - is way smaller than the size recommended for my waist - I won't tell you what size that is because it isn't even on their list!!!!!  (note to self - stop snacking on the cheese and biscuits).

Then I did a full tummy adjustment (sounds like you have pulled down your fly zip after a yummy meal - and who hasn't done that - common fess up!!) - not actually according to my body measurements but according to the measurements of aforementioned favourite pull on black pants as the first pair I wanted to make was in similar fabric.

I used the techniques shown in the book - Dressmaking to flatter your shape - Lorna Knight

I was going to type out the instructions for the adjustment but you really need the corresponding pictures.

This is how mine ended up.

This is the amount that I ended up adding to the waist area - this is times 2  - but keeping in mind that this is a light jersey knit fabric that will be used

I added the amount that I added to the front to the waistband

Supervisory special cat Elle - ensuring all is above board

This resulted in the caramel coloured jersey pants shown here. I am very happy with these pants and have worn them many times.

Now I wanted a pair in a lovely bottom weight RPL acquired through the amazing EmmaOneSock - got to love her fabrics - though the shipping to AUS is a killer.

Now - this RPL has a slight stretch (the good friend of the big tummy) but no where near the stretch of the jersey (BFF) .... and remembering my horror of not taking into consideration the different stretches in fabric - I thought body measurements were called for.

This resulted in me adding 6 cms to each pattern piece (a total of 24 cm - and this is in addition to my first adjustments - yikes!!) I just added it using my curve ruler. This way - if I make any more jersey versions (and I will) I will just fold it out.

The below technique was something I just tacked on and is not as good as the snip and spread method in the  book as that method actually puts room at the stomach where I needed it. Adding to the side also doesn't add to the crotch line and you may end up in a bit of pain!!

The downward slant of the added piece caused a bit of a problem - to be rectified for next pair

I also then needed to add this amount to the waistband - although I ended up reducing it a bit as the waistband ended up a little large.

The results (as shown with another version of StyleArc's Creative Cate top. I LOVE this pattern - although the seemingly diagonal animal print of my last version is a bit more flattering than the below "stripes").

Note - both legs looked the correct length in the mirror - I think that a shoe may have sunk a little in the ground making one leg seem too long - but I will check it out on solid ground later.

The top is made with fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics (yikes - also painful in the shipping costs) - I am quite happy about how I lined up the "stripes" from front to back (although in the interests of public health I refuse to show a side shot). I also debated on where to put the colours. I strategically put the darkest stripe across my biggest part - hoping that it would camouflage somewhat - and lo and behold - it seemed to work.

In the spirit of helping my larger sewing sisters decide whether to choose this pattern - here is the front of the pants (quelle horreur - save yourself - look away now)

Now there is no way a body like mine will produce a smooth line in pants - get over it Beverley - it ain't gonna happen - so I am actually very pleased with the result. The pants are very comfy.

The back...

Now plead for mercy all you want - I'm going to show it anyway - here is the pants bot bot.. I do however refuse to put it in "extra large" format - it is large enough as it is.

The little downward slant on the waistband is caused by the aforementioned downward slant on my pattern alteration.

All in all I am extremely happy with this whole outfit and it will definitely go into rotation (another 2 for the sewloutions jar). And it will be a part of my Artisans Square SWAP. I will end up with lots of mix and match separates.

Next on the radar is another animal print top for Jungle January - this time a peplum - Vogue 8815 already cut and basted for trial - yes I am going to give Cate a short rest but I am sure she will make another appearance before the end of Jan for one pattern many looks competition (and because I lurve her - she is such a nice pattern).

Then the draw for Plus Sized Pattern Pyramid.- don't forget to tell your friends and put it on your blog - spread the word,

Pattern Pyramid (Plus Sized)

It was conceived in the mind of Karen from "Did You Make That"......

It traveled the world and grew bigger and bigger......

It has visited the homes of many a sewist.......

It has then been passed on to yet more sewists......

It has evolved..

It is now so big that is can not be contained

It's next incarnation is here...

Some of the patterns on offer - still have to dig out the rest

THE RULES (As copied - and slightly amended - from Did You Make That)

• Anyone, anywhere can enter the giveaway by posting a comment below by midnight Sydney Australia Time Friday 18th January BUT you must have an active blog. (Reasons to become obvious.)
• I will randomly select 3 winners.
• I will post a selection of approximately 5 - 6 patterns to each winner.Each winner will pick one pattern to keep for themselves, then host their own giveaway. They will randomly select a winner, post the remaining patterns to that Person C. Person C will pick a pattern for themselves, host their own giveaway and post the remaining patterns to the winner, Person D. Person D will…
• All patterns are in the plus size category - ie - if the pattern comes in 2 sizing groups, then it will be the larger category. Patterns to go up to at least go up to a size 20 (most go higher). Patterns listed as "all sizes" will include plus sizes.
• If you wish to take more than one pattern you can replenish the stock with a pattern you no longer want - but please make sure it is in plus size range

You get the idea!

THE SMALL PRINT

• We are taking it on trust that all pattern pieces are there
• Your selection of patterns will be picked at random - please don’t contact me asking for specific patterns.
• If you’re a winner, I would love it if you could make a small contribution to The Brooke. This is a charity close to the heart of Catherine, who so generously provided the original patterns. These plus sized patterns have been contributed by me in the spirit of the generosity of the sewing community
• Please engage in a timely fashion, launching your own giveaways soon after receiving a parcel
• You must be be happy to post patterns worldwide.

Spread the word - let it be known to all.

Let the fun begin


P.S. - To the winners from my blog anniversary give away - your prizes have now been posted and are winging their way to you.

StyleArc Creative Cate Top - Jungle January

Jungle January has jumped onto the calendar and here is my first item to parade:

The Creative Cate Top from StyleArc patterns.

Many people have reviewed this top on PR however I was a little concerned that it would suit me. My main concern was the sleeve length. I need sleeves to hide the tuck shop arms but was concerned over how a lengthened sleeve would look on a style like this. When I saw Kelly's version I was happy to give it a go.

The purrfect fabric for this is my animal mishmash that just goes purrfectly with Prttynpnk's Jungle January - in praise of textile beasties. I love the colours of this fabric and the feel is divine too.

In addition to lengthening the sleeves by 2 3/4 inches I lengthened the body by 4 3/4 inches. I also changed the hem to a "shirt tail" hemline as I like the look. I am very happy with the outcome.

I also added some stay tape to the shoulders.

Only 3 pattern pieces and one is a small neck band for the back!!

This top is so easy it practically sews itself. I can prove this - look how good it is - certainly not my sewing!!!! Sews up quick too. Just put the neckband on, sew up the sides and then attach the front cowl piece to the shoulders and sew. The hemming is what takes the longest.

Pictured with StyleArc Linda Pants

The top took 2 1/2 hours to sew. Very easy and highly recommended.

This will now be the first item for my Artisans Square SWAP 2013

I see many many more of these in my near future ...... hmm .... do I hear one pattern many looks contest???

Prize Draw - Pamela's Patterns Perfect T - and a lot of firsts

Happy New Year!!

First job of the year - give away from my Blog Anniversary.

Many people go high tech and do some sort of random counter.... That was too much for me - especially on the first of the year. So I resorted to low tech - drawing paper out of a bowl.....

Draw for pattern

Winner

Draw for Sketch book

Winner

And the winners are:

Hot Patterns Sabine Dress
Sue from Quilt Sew Sew Sue

Fashionary Sketch Book
Suzy from Suzy Bee Sews

It must be the year for Sue's

I also bought some fashionary pads which are smaller one image pads for sketching and have decided to give them away too.

They go to:

Congratulations. I will be in contact soon via PR.

I would also like to take this opportunity to thank all of the people who read my blog and special hugs to those who take the time to leave a comment.. Sure do love those comments.

Here's to a productive and fun 2013.

And now on to Sewing News....

Well - I have finished my first item for the year - and it was going to be my first item for my Artisans Square SWAP.

It is my first finished t-shirt, the first time I have sewn an item on my new coverstitch machine and I did my first successful neck band........ Now I know these are such easy things for most sewists but I have really struggled - especially with neck bands. Neck bands have caused me to throw out items in disgust. Finally I have one I am happy with - neck band that is.

Am I happy with the actual top? No.

It is funny that I was perfectly happy with it until I saw the pictures. A picture tells a thousand words ... and most of them I don't want to hear!!!!!

The top needs to be a tad longer in the front - the neckline a fair bit lower - even though I lowered the scoop neckline the girls need more room - if I wear anything with a neckline that is too high I look like I am walking around with a helipad on my chest and have to duck at low flying objects!!

Also - the darts need to be lowered even more - damn gravity :-(  and when looking at the pictures it appears that not only is it too short at the front - but the front actually goes up a little - wouldn't have anything to do with my large stomach!! Actually looking at the pattern I can see why - my fault - not the pattern's. Too much alteration and I ended up cutting it a little on a slope up.

However - I am thrilled with the neck band.

Although you can see some of the stitching just after the end of the curve - for my first attempt at stitch in the ditch - I think I did okay! I attached the neckband using the method of : sew right sides together, turn binding over tucking in seam allowance, stitch in the ditch and the cut off the remaining neckband on the inside. This of course after quartering both the band and the neckline.

I used my blind hemming foot (G foot) for my Janome to guide me when stitching in the ditch. (Got to love those machine feet). This method was shown on the Pamela's Patterns DVD for sewing the perfect T and it worked beautifully. (Thanks Pamela). Pamela used a special foot for hers but I had heard that you can use the blind hem foot and adjust it as needed - which is what I did.

I am loving the coverstitch for hemming too.

The pants are made by me too but not blogged about. They are the StyleArc Linda pant. The reason I haven't blogged about them is not because I am not happy with them, but when I made them they were too long - I still wore them though.. but was not happy with the twin needle hemming I did. I knew I was going to  get a coverstitch machine so waited until I had learnt how to use it and then cut off the old hem and did a new one on the CS machine. Now they are a tad short but at least I am not tripping over them.

They are also made with a light weight jersey and I am going to make another pair with a lovely bottom-weight RPL from EmmaOneSock. I am happy with them though.

Twin needle hem - the part between the stitching puckered

New coverstitch hem - no puckering

I am not going to review the PP top on PR until I have my problems sorted. I love the pattern itself - user error is the problem.

Things I have learnt:

- Love my new overlocker (serger) / coverstitch machine. When I purchased it the idea was to have my original overlocker set up and then set the new one up as a coverstitch and move between the 2 - just use the new overlocker function as a backup machine. However - this one is so easy to covert between overlocker and covertitch that I have now resigned my original overlocker to the role of back up machine (so sorry Elna 664 Pro - I do still love you - honestly - there's plenty of love to go around)

- How to do a coverstitch hem. OH Yeah - so easy and so pleased with the results.

- How to attach a neck bind - YEAH!!!!!!
This was a biggie for me. I now know what I was doing wrong when trying to attach neckbands. I quartered the neckband and put pins in indicating the quarters and then attached the quarters to the centre front, centre back and shoulder seams instead of quartering the garment as well - DOH!

- How to use the G Foot (blind hemming foot) for the Janome to stitch in the ditch.

- How to "block press" to remove wrinkles in hems etc.

- That there are so many more techniques and stitches to learn and practice.

- The importance of pattern placing when cutting fabric..Yikes - posies on the peaks!

What a great sewing day - even though the top isn't a keeper but a around the houser.

Ciao for now

Happy sewing

Beverley

Christmas spent

I wish I had listened to this little guy....... (even though his spelling is atrocious and the look in his little eyes is saying get me out of this get up)

Sydney weather can be unpredictable and Christmas day is usually hot hot hot (one Christmas was so hot we abandoned the outside setting for the cooler indoors - all the roses died and we spent the day trying to keep cool).

Not so much this Christmas. 

Aussie Christmases usually entail lots of prawns and other seafood, cold cuts of meat, trifles and pavlovas. I don't eat seafood (being a Piscean it is like eating your own - although I guess fish do that anyway!!), I am also not a great lover of cold cuts. So we usually have a traditional Christmas - gotta love plum pud with Brandy Custard!

This year I thought I would do a rolled loin of Pork with sausage stuffing. Yum - all that crackling goodness. To keep the kitchen cool I thought I would use the wonderful Weber Baby Q BBQ out on our deck.

So I loaded it up with pork and veges and went inside..... 

Not long after the rain came. Had I acted then - all would have been okay - but I thought it would drizzle a little and then blow over.

Not to be - here in Sydney we had a huge electrical storm and it poured and poured rain.

What to do??? The Weber is a good little BBQ - but is influenced by ambient temperature - and mother nature unleashing all it's glory on the poor lid of the BBQ was just too much for it and the temperature wouldn't rise. Using good old Aussie ingenuity I rigged up a kind of lean to using a ladder, a nearby tree, the window surrounds of the house itself, some bubble/foam like packaging material, a towel and some pegs.

Managed to get the pork done but took an extra hour - not good.

Anyway - despite the challenges a good day was had and presents exchanged.

My favourite present was a couple of hand knitted scarves from my DSIL. Absolutely love them. Not only the thought but the time and effort.

Like a true sewist - my mind was going through my stash thinking of fabric that would go with them - and I have quite a bit
.

What about you? How was your Christmas. Looking forward to reading all about it.

Off to sew now. 

Blog anniversary and give away

Well - I have turned one and what a year it has been.

Sewing wise - not great. When I started sewing a year ago I had envisaged a wardrobe bulging at the seams with newly stitched garments .......

and friends / family and strangers ooing and aahing over my outfits and fabrics.....

I have planned various capsules and spent so much time fantasizing over these luscious plans.

Hmmm....  who would have thought that this sewing gig is so hard!

I was naive at the beginning (knowing nothing about sewing) and thought that you bought magic patterns that came in their little envelopes - delivered straight to your door - you unpack them, throw them gracefully onto a  cutting table, slice through your lovely fabric - take it to the machine where, within mere minutes, it is magically transformed into couture works of fabric art.

I purchased fabulous machines that work hard (not their fault), glorious fabric by the ton; patterns; more fabric; notions; DVDs etc etc etc

Not only was this naive of me - but doesn't acknowledge the years and years of experience it takes to produce the beautiful outfits I have seen on blogs that I follow.

Who knew that patterns rarely fit straight out of the packet - add to that the challenges an apple shape puts on a dress, top or even worse - pants. Who would have thought that an outfit that looks smashing on the twigs on the envelope would have you wanting to smash the mirror when worn on your bod!

How do RTW get it right? Can you imagine going into a shop and looking for the rack that has a sign - clothes for full busted, short waisted, round stomached, deep crotched, flat bottomed, round shouldered, sway backed, hump backed, large biceped, thick necked people. And that would be just the one rack! I would be happy with labels for pear, apple column etc but no luck.

I even tried the Pattern Master software where you put in your own measurements and it spits out a pattern especially done to your measurement - nuh! - I will post about it after I see if I can save the dress.

This is what I ended up with instead of the bulging wardrobe:



WADDERS!

Now this is not a whinge fest - I have had so much fun - even with the wadders (some shown on the blog - some didn't even make the photo shoot) and am happily celebrating one year of not only blogging - but sewing.

One of the reasons that I am celebrating is the wonderful sewing people I have met and virtually met during the year. You know I reached out to the sewing world with my recent purchase of my overlock / coverstitch 744 machine looking for a video and I had pictures sent to me; links sent to me for You-tube videos of a similar machine and 2 lovely ladies sent me copies of their DVD. One lovely lady (Barbara) included tips and photos of threading she had taken of the machine and a couple of darning needles to help me with releasing the thread and the other lovely lady (Sandra) sent me a list of tips too. These are people I have never met or spoken with before. I have met some lovely people at my local sewing group - some of whom have blogs I have been following (like meeting rock stars!!), I have learnt from the many tutorials and the people who are so giving of their time and knowledge. The generosity of this global sewing community is amazing.

Most of all I have appreciated the encouragement, wisdom and advice I have been given by fellow sewists.

So - I would like to give back.

I have 2 things on offer.

For the artistic amongst us (not me!!!) I have a fashionary sketch book. Let your inner artist / designer loose. Follow the link to have a better look (and you can also download a sample to try from their site) NB! I purchased this a little while ago so it might be an older version.

OR

For those non artistic amongst us (or those just not interested in design) - I have a pattern from Hot Patterns - Deco Vibe Sarine knit dress and top (sizes 6 - 26 in one envelope) Advanced Beginner level.

I am happy to post anywhere.

Simply leave a comment on this post by the end of the year - indicating which of the 2 give-aways you want and I will draw out a name for each on Jan 1st.

As this blog was started for me to journal my sewing progress I am going to finish with just a few (well maybe several) of the new things I have learnt this year.

1. How to do a full bust adjustment and other pattern alterations - I actually enjoy the process now. There is something so satisfying about cutting into the paper and sticking more paper on - ending up hopefully - with a much better fitting garment.
2. In line with the above - sewing is like house painting - 80% of the effort and time should go into preparation. (I made up the 80% in line with Pareto's Principles - I don't really know what percentage!!!!!)
3. Your foot control isn't a surrogate for a car accelerator - slow down - beautiful garments won't magically appear the faster you go! Sometimes I think I need a sewing cop in the vicinity to give me a ticket - you can tell by my seams - straight - no!
4. I love machine feet - the more the merrier. 
5. Starting to learn to look at pattern lines on the packet instead of the pretty pictures. This goes hand in hand with starting to learn what suits me - still a way to go with this.
6. How to use the gelatin method to make sewing with sheer easier (thanks Lena)
7. Be careful to test the fabric you are using for stretch - different stretch capacity will really affect your outfit
8. What my colours are
9. That the sewing community is fantastic

Slow down and take it easy

Some of my fave bloggers are posting on their most worn self sewn items of 2012. Let's hope that next year I will have enough to do that!!

What will 2013 bring? Some plans:

• Artisans Square SWAP
• Jungle January courtesy of Prttynpnk at Pretty Grievances
• Maybe one pattern many looks competition on Sewing Pattern Review - depends on the rules as it will need to fit my plans with my SWAP
• Doing zips, buttons and trying the corded buttonholes Sharon from Petite and Sewing was kind enough to demonstrate for me
• Collars
• Craftsy courses - tailored shirt and pants fitting

I think that is ambitious enough for now.

Finally - I would like to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas.

An addition to my plans... Jungle January courtesy of Prttynpnk

The totally hilarious Anne (Prttynpnk) from Pretty Grievances has launched a festival parade of animal print for January (and maybe the following months??). This fits in my current plans for SWAP with Artisan Square as one item is already in my SWAP and the other was planned to sew anyway as a hopefully "wearable toile".

These are the plans:

Wearable toile for Vogue 8815 in a wine coloured cheetah print.

This is a stretch rayon which I think will lend itself well to the pattern.

The last couple of weekends I have been watching "Plus size pattern alterations" craftsy class which uses this exact pattern. I have been altering the pattern along with Barbara (teacher) and am about 3/4 done. I have had to add quite a bit as this pattern doesn't come in my size. I traced the pattern off and have altered the size and am up to changing the dart positions and bust.

I am happy with my progress and should be ready to start on some sewing soon.

Next up is StyleArc Creative Cate top in a earthy toned mish mash of animal.

This top and fabric is already in my SWAP - however I am thinking of adding a matching skirt - the StyleArc Susan skirt.. The fabric is a medium weight ITY knit from fabric.com.

What do you think - matching animal print outfit - too much????