Proportionately problematic pants and Cate makes another creative appearance

I need pants / trousers / slacks - whatever you want to call them.

So I thought that I would try Patternmaker where you put your measurements into the computer and it spits out a pattern tailored to your own measurements. Easy peasy lemon squeezy - only minimal adjustments needed - if at all......????!!!!

Here is my problem... *sigh*

This is me...

So Patternmaker - along with 95% of pant manufacturers - thinks that I have large legs to fit my large stomach.

Here is what it came up with. I have sacrificed my favourite RTW black slacks to use to compare. They were starting to get threadbare so I desperately need new ones.

Notice that the waist measurements are good - there is only seam allowance and elastic casing allowance showing.

Pretty good for a computer program ... Now it all goes pear shaped --- hmmmm literally pear shaped.

Now this is just the back - the front is the same which means that the legs would be way to big - not to mention the crotch - what is with that?? Hate to think the impact of that!! I think I would end up looking like a homie (male gang member).

Anyway - I have spent my short sewing history making patterns bigger - now I thought about making this smaller but then read Sham's account of her Linda Pants.

Now Shams doesn't have near as much difference between her waist and thighs as I do - but the thought is the same. Why try to grade down the whole pattern based on my waist measurement - why not just add room for the tum?

Hence it began.

First I ordered a StyleArc Linda in size 24 (which believe me - is way smaller than the size recommended for my waist - I won't tell you what size that is because it isn't even on their list!!!!!  (note to self - stop snacking on the cheese and biscuits).

Then I did a full tummy adjustment (sounds like you have pulled down your fly zip after a yummy meal - and who hasn't done that - common fess up!!) - not actually according to my body measurements but according to the measurements of aforementioned favourite pull on black pants as the first pair I wanted to make was in similar fabric.

I used the techniques shown in the book - Dressmaking to flatter your shape - Lorna Knight

I was going to type out the instructions for the adjustment but you really need the corresponding pictures.

This is how mine ended up.

This is the amount that I ended up adding to the waist area - this is times 2  - but keeping in mind that this is a light jersey knit fabric that will be used

I added the amount that I added to the front to the waistband

Supervisory special cat Elle - ensuring all is above board

This resulted in the caramel coloured jersey pants shown here. I am very happy with these pants and have worn them many times.

Now I wanted a pair in a lovely bottom weight RPL acquired through the amazing EmmaOneSock - got to love her fabrics - though the shipping to AUS is a killer.

Now - this RPL has a slight stretch (the good friend of the big tummy) but no where near the stretch of the jersey (BFF) .... and remembering my horror of not taking into consideration the different stretches in fabric - I thought body measurements were called for.

This resulted in me adding 6 cms to each pattern piece (a total of 24 cm - and this is in addition to my first adjustments - yikes!!) I just added it using my curve ruler. This way - if I make any more jersey versions (and I will) I will just fold it out.

The below technique was something I just tacked on and is not as good as the snip and spread method in the  book as that method actually puts room at the stomach where I needed it. Adding to the side also doesn't add to the crotch line and you may end up in a bit of pain!!

The downward slant of the added piece caused a bit of a problem - to be rectified for next pair

I also then needed to add this amount to the waistband - although I ended up reducing it a bit as the waistband ended up a little large.

The results (as shown with another version of StyleArc's Creative Cate top. I LOVE this pattern - although the seemingly diagonal animal print of my last version is a bit more flattering than the below "stripes").

Note - both legs looked the correct length in the mirror - I think that a shoe may have sunk a little in the ground making one leg seem too long - but I will check it out on solid ground later.

The top is made with fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics (yikes - also painful in the shipping costs) - I am quite happy about how I lined up the "stripes" from front to back (although in the interests of public health I refuse to show a side shot). I also debated on where to put the colours. I strategically put the darkest stripe across my biggest part - hoping that it would camouflage somewhat - and lo and behold - it seemed to work.

In the spirit of helping my larger sewing sisters decide whether to choose this pattern - here is the front of the pants (quelle horreur - save yourself - look away now)

Now there is no way a body like mine will produce a smooth line in pants - get over it Beverley - it ain't gonna happen - so I am actually very pleased with the result. The pants are very comfy.

The back...

Now plead for mercy all you want - I'm going to show it anyway - here is the pants bot bot.. I do however refuse to put it in "extra large" format - it is large enough as it is.

The little downward slant on the waistband is caused by the aforementioned downward slant on my pattern alteration.

All in all I am extremely happy with this whole outfit and it will definitely go into rotation (another 2 for the sewloutions jar). And it will be a part of my Artisans Square SWAP. I will end up with lots of mix and match separates.

Next on the radar is another animal print top for Jungle January - this time a peplum - Vogue 8815 already cut and basted for trial - yes I am going to give Cate a short rest but I am sure she will make another appearance before the end of Jan for one pattern many looks competition (and because I lurve her - she is such a nice pattern).

Then the draw for Plus Sized Pattern Pyramid.- don't forget to tell your friends and put it on your blog - spread the word,