Yet more StyleArc Creative Cates and a Simplicity 3699

Here are another 2 tops I mostly completed on THE WEEKEND. All that needed to be done was the hemming. This has now been completed.

Nothing new here - I am only really blogging about them as this is my sewing journal to keep track of my items sewn (although I am pleased with them). They are the same as all my other Cates (which is my all time favourite top pattern). I make other tops but they never seem to feel or look as good as Cate.

The first one is from some of the fabric purchased during the trip to Cabramatta. The most difficult part of this creation was the fabric placement.

Can you see what my issue was (hint - long udders and a tip underneath to boot!!!).

I then tried turning the fabric around and found that one of the now upended udders was in the centre of my stomach - another risky look.

With careful shifting around (and input from my fellow sewists) I got what I think is the best look. I didn't have a lot of room with the repeat of the fabric and just managed to get it positioned for a wearable top.

The fabric brings to mind Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom movie for some obscure reason. The pics below are a little unfocussed in some areas as I am learning to use the delay switch on my camera along with the new gorrilapod I purchased after reading about it on Up Sew Late's blog. Thought I would give my official photographer a break. Would love a remote control camera but apparently they are only available on SLR cameras. :-(  My legs look like they are still moving in some of the pics!!

The other Cate is made from fabric I purchased some time ago from fabric.com. It has the most divine "suede" feel to it even though it isn't suede. It has both splashes of red and orange with a line of gold dots.

In the above pictures I am wearing my orange Barbs and in the below pictures I am wearing my red Barbs. In the pictures there doesn't look like there is much difference but in life they are definite orange and definite red.

I am happy with both Cates. I now have 6 of them.

The final top on show is the Khalia Ali Simplicity 3699

I had to lower the empire seam and I lowered it a little too much. I added 5 inches. If I make this again I will bring it up a couple of inches. Now I like myself a low neckline - the girls like the light - but this was soo low that I had to put a cami on. I think I will try raising it by the shoulders which should bring up both the neckline and the too low empire seam. It is also a little tight around the tum in the picture. I seem to make my tops either too loose or too tight.

Back to orange pants

I am on the fence with the look of this one. I will have to see how it wears. This wasn't started on the weekend away but was prompted by the fact that winter has finally come to Sydney and this fabric is quite thick and warm (warm enough for Sydney Winters and my stage in life LOL). It is from the latest Knitwit collection and I quite like the fabric. I also purchased it in the Smoke Green but I am thinking the teal would have been the nicest. I am trying to go a bit more "neutral" after all of my colourful Barbs and tops however I am missing my colour.

I still have another top - this time a Anne top - and an Abby Cardigan that I did on the weekend away that need a bit of finishing and then I will have a think about what I want to do next. I am so enjoying sewing and expanding my wardrobe.

Artisan's square 3PAC and more

First a heart felt thanks for all the support on my last post. The sewing community is such a fantastic group of people. It is also another "wake up" to me that many others are going through their own issues and problems

As mentioned in my last post, I have been sewing a lot the last few days (for me anyway!!) Here are the results.

StyleArc Barb Pants and Creative Cate top. These along with my newly fixed Island Ali top will form the first 3PAC of my Artisan Square SWAP

I have made both before and love the style on me. So - why mess with a good thing? I did change the Barb pants by slimming down the leg a little from my last pair. I shaved about an inch off the thighs. The fabric is a lovely bengaline from the Remnants Warehouse.I have thought about stretching my skills and doing a pattern with a fly front - but then I think there is no way I would wear anything tucked in so I don't need the details. I do think I shall try pockets soon though. The fabric is bengaline purchased from the Remnants Warehouse.

The Cate top is cool and comfy to wear and I love that pattern. With all of the tops I have made - I like the Creative Cate the best! The fabric is a really silky ITY knit of some sort of animal print from Fabric.com. I have been trying to work out what type of animal - there looks like some fish scales, some sort of big cats but in the end I decided the animal was a sloth as it was supposed to be finished for Anne of Pretty Grievances' Jungle January.

Next on the deck(my version of catwalk) is the lovely Michelle Tunic again from StyleArc. The Michelle Tunic is from their plus sized range however is similar to their Sandy top. I don't know why StyleArc have a plus sized section as they will do ANY of their patterns up to a AUS size 30. The Michelle was made up in a gorgeous poly chiffon also from the Remnants Warehouse. I decided to do the "stripes" running vertical instead of horizontal - more slimming I believe. The fabric has a tiny amount of glitter on it. I am not normally a glitter girl but it is so minimal it is just  a very pretty accent. You wouldn't even see it unless you looked up close.

This will also be my entry into the February Make a Garment a Month Challenge

The sideways tilt is because of my hip and only apparent from the back

Glitter

This was a bit of a learning curve for me. I hadn't sewn with chiffon before but I used Lena Merrin's gelatine method and it worked a treat. Didn't even worry the glitter. The fabric goes in a nice thin flowing chiffon and when it dries it is like organza - stiff but malleable and more controllable. I actually love the look and feel of it like this but of course you buy chiffon for it's soft and floating qualities and you also can't get the fabric wet when you have gelatined it. It irons and everything with the gelatine in it. Once you have finished sewing you wash as normal and wow - back to flowing chiffon. Brilliant. BTW I was rushed for time so instead of leaving it soaking for an hour as per instructions I only soaked for about 20 mins. It still worked well.

With this top I added two inches in length - used a one size larger pattern than I do for the knit at StyleArc and made the mistake of extending the slit at the bust thinking that I do like low cut - the girls do need their space you know - but I cut it way too low. I will need to take a couple of stitches to close about an inch. I also don't have much luck with v's. the top stitching to hold down the bias doesn't look great and I always have difficulty with the "turning over" the end of the V.

I was going to try another skill - French seams - but I couldn't work out how that would work with the vents at the bottom of the side seams - so I used the overcast stitch on the Elna to tidy the edges and did a normal seam at the sides. I did find it puckered a bit so on the advice from More Fabric Savvy from Sandra Betzina - I used a tiny zigzag stitch. Very slow going but did not pucker the fabric.

Overcast stitch on overlocker / seger - haven't used this before - it is good for light fabrics

Using narrow hem foot

Outcome of narrow hem

Looking at the photos I think I might have some fit issues. Everything feels good on - I will have to wear to my ASG meeting on Saturday and get some fit feedback from the experts there.

And finally here is the Island Ali top fixed - see before and after. This was because I misread the instructions and only cut two side panels instead of 2 PAIR of side panels. I also scooped the neckline lower. The girls were happy. Also the first pair of Barb pants and the modified slimmer ones.

I am keeping my second Michelle tunic until my next post. This one was picture heavy enough.

What I have learnt:

• The Gelatine Method works great - thanks Lena!
• How to make a bias strip (well - not great outcome but it did work)
• How to sew a bias strip instead of using facings
• That it really does work better for me when I buy the bias strips instead of making them. Especially from chiffon!!
• How to use the overcast stitch on my serger / overlocker.

I will leave you with a pic of Supervisory Special Cat Elle inspecting the quality of my fabrics.

Until next time may your sewjo mojo flowso.

Jalie Skirt finished.

In my last post I mentioned that my coverstitch / overlocker machine was skipping stitches badly when trying to do the coverstitch hem on my skirt. I thought it might be the needles but I had used all the special needles used in the machine and couldn't find any in the stores.

Alison from Sewing with Cats to the rescue! She very kindly posted me a packet of the precious needles (including the details of an ebay store where they are sold very reasonably priced!) and I cleaned, oiled and changed the needles and voila - it works!!!! Thanks Alison - and thanks also to queen of the Jungle Velosewer for offering the use of her machine and needles too! This is some great community. I hope that I have the opportunity to give back soon.

So here is my skirt - before the pic let me say - I am happy with the skirt but think it a little too much modeled with the matching top... there are those who can get away with a lot of loud print on a body - but alas - I don't think I am one of them..

Here it is with a RTW black top.

The full skirt

Now - a question for all of the stylistas out there - please some shooting from the hip feedback. 

1. Is the all animal too much?
2. Is the black top too black - drag it down?
3. What about length of tops? If I were to make another StyleArc Creative Cate top (the pattern is almost worn out) in a chocolate or caramel - is the length too long for a skirt on the first top.

I tend to wear mainly plain slacks with patterned tops. Not through choice but because I don't have any skirts that look okay. 

Thanks,

Before I sign off I would like to send a huge hug across the ocean to Anne at Pretty Grievances for guiding us through the jungle in January (although I think I may have just missed the tour bus with this skirt), What a great month it has been and I can't wait to see the "very first Annie awards".... my breath is bated and I am waiting like an eager beaver-ly.

Border line border print Cate

Well here is another Creative Cate top. This time in a border print.

I purchased this fabric and have been troubled by it ever since. Being 5'8 or 177 cm tall I was having problems with the space between the "borders". It wasn't a border on the selvedge but a repeating pattern and if I wanted the pattern at the bottom of a top, I had to cut into a bit of the pattern at the top and every pattern I had chosen for it was not practical. It would have been better had I purchased more of the fabric - I could have simply incorporated the pattern in both the top and bottom of the pattern - but alas - I had only purchased what I would normally for a top and therefore I only had 2 purple pattern bits in my fabric. This gave me pause. Until I came up with this:

I put the pattern at the top and I cut a "band" and put it on the bottom. Now I am entering this into One Pattern Many Looks on Pattern Review and I don't think it breaks the rules of drafting as no drafting was done. Instead of adding the 4 3/4 inches to the bottom of the pattern I need for my height and stomach, I added twice that much in a folded band.

I don't like it as much as my animal print one - maybe it is the band - not sure - I will have to live with it for a while - but am happy with it if for no other reason than it gets my purple pants out of the wardrobe they had been sitting in for 2 years as they were an orphan. I don't know what possessed me to buy them in the first place as I had nothing to go with them - I guess they looked good on the TV. Now they have a friend to play with.

Now to other news:

I have almost completed 2 items for Jungle January - Vogue 8815 peplum top and a skirt in an animal print that matches my first version of Cate..... however ..... my newly purchased second hand Elna 744 is skipping stitches BADLY in the coverhem....... I don't know if it is the needles or it needs a service.... *sigh*. Sad news is ... I don't know if they will be done in time to make an appearance on the "cat"walk. Luckily the sleeves on the above was done just as it started playing up and the bottom was taken care of with the "band".

I don't have any more of the "special" Schmetz ELx705 needles that came with the machine.... There is a drought of them is Sydney.... I don't even know if you can purchase them here. I will change the needles and see if that helps.... otherwise... I am going to have to take it in for a service. :-(

Any fellow Sydney sewists - especially in Inner West area - how much does an overlocker service normally cost and do you know any good service people?

Help!!!

Proportionately problematic pants and Cate makes another creative appearance

I need pants / trousers / slacks - whatever you want to call them.

So I thought that I would try Patternmaker where you put your measurements into the computer and it spits out a pattern tailored to your own measurements. Easy peasy lemon squeezy - only minimal adjustments needed - if at all......????!!!!

Here is my problem... *sigh*

This is me...

So Patternmaker - along with 95% of pant manufacturers - thinks that I have large legs to fit my large stomach.

Here is what it came up with. I have sacrificed my favourite RTW black slacks to use to compare. They were starting to get threadbare so I desperately need new ones.

Notice that the waist measurements are good - there is only seam allowance and elastic casing allowance showing.

Pretty good for a computer program ... Now it all goes pear shaped --- hmmmm literally pear shaped.

Now this is just the back - the front is the same which means that the legs would be way to big - not to mention the crotch - what is with that?? Hate to think the impact of that!! I think I would end up looking like a homie (male gang member).

Anyway - I have spent my short sewing history making patterns bigger - now I thought about making this smaller but then read Sham's account of her Linda Pants.

Now Shams doesn't have near as much difference between her waist and thighs as I do - but the thought is the same. Why try to grade down the whole pattern based on my waist measurement - why not just add room for the tum?

Hence it began.

First I ordered a StyleArc Linda in size 24 (which believe me - is way smaller than the size recommended for my waist - I won't tell you what size that is because it isn't even on their list!!!!!  (note to self - stop snacking on the cheese and biscuits).

Then I did a full tummy adjustment (sounds like you have pulled down your fly zip after a yummy meal - and who hasn't done that - common fess up!!) - not actually according to my body measurements but according to the measurements of aforementioned favourite pull on black pants as the first pair I wanted to make was in similar fabric.

I used the techniques shown in the book - Dressmaking to flatter your shape - Lorna Knight

I was going to type out the instructions for the adjustment but you really need the corresponding pictures.

This is how mine ended up.

This is the amount that I ended up adding to the waist area - this is times 2  - but keeping in mind that this is a light jersey knit fabric that will be used

I added the amount that I added to the front to the waistband

Supervisory special cat Elle - ensuring all is above board

This resulted in the caramel coloured jersey pants shown here. I am very happy with these pants and have worn them many times.

Now I wanted a pair in a lovely bottom weight RPL acquired through the amazing EmmaOneSock - got to love her fabrics - though the shipping to AUS is a killer.

Now - this RPL has a slight stretch (the good friend of the big tummy) but no where near the stretch of the jersey (BFF) .... and remembering my horror of not taking into consideration the different stretches in fabric - I thought body measurements were called for.

This resulted in me adding 6 cms to each pattern piece (a total of 24 cm - and this is in addition to my first adjustments - yikes!!) I just added it using my curve ruler. This way - if I make any more jersey versions (and I will) I will just fold it out.

The below technique was something I just tacked on and is not as good as the snip and spread method in the  book as that method actually puts room at the stomach where I needed it. Adding to the side also doesn't add to the crotch line and you may end up in a bit of pain!!

The downward slant of the added piece caused a bit of a problem - to be rectified for next pair

I also then needed to add this amount to the waistband - although I ended up reducing it a bit as the waistband ended up a little large.

The results (as shown with another version of StyleArc's Creative Cate top. I LOVE this pattern - although the seemingly diagonal animal print of my last version is a bit more flattering than the below "stripes").

Note - both legs looked the correct length in the mirror - I think that a shoe may have sunk a little in the ground making one leg seem too long - but I will check it out on solid ground later.

The top is made with fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics (yikes - also painful in the shipping costs) - I am quite happy about how I lined up the "stripes" from front to back (although in the interests of public health I refuse to show a side shot). I also debated on where to put the colours. I strategically put the darkest stripe across my biggest part - hoping that it would camouflage somewhat - and lo and behold - it seemed to work.

In the spirit of helping my larger sewing sisters decide whether to choose this pattern - here is the front of the pants (quelle horreur - save yourself - look away now)

Now there is no way a body like mine will produce a smooth line in pants - get over it Beverley - it ain't gonna happen - so I am actually very pleased with the result. The pants are very comfy.

The back...

Now plead for mercy all you want - I'm going to show it anyway - here is the pants bot bot.. I do however refuse to put it in "extra large" format - it is large enough as it is.

The little downward slant on the waistband is caused by the aforementioned downward slant on my pattern alteration.

All in all I am extremely happy with this whole outfit and it will definitely go into rotation (another 2 for the sewloutions jar). And it will be a part of my Artisans Square SWAP. I will end up with lots of mix and match separates.

Next on the radar is another animal print top for Jungle January - this time a peplum - Vogue 8815 already cut and basted for trial - yes I am going to give Cate a short rest but I am sure she will make another appearance before the end of Jan for one pattern many looks competition (and because I lurve her - she is such a nice pattern).

Then the draw for Plus Sized Pattern Pyramid.- don't forget to tell your friends and put it on your blog - spread the word,

StyleArc Creative Cate Top - Jungle January

Jungle January has jumped onto the calendar and here is my first item to parade:

The Creative Cate Top from StyleArc patterns.

Many people have reviewed this top on PR however I was a little concerned that it would suit me. My main concern was the sleeve length. I need sleeves to hide the tuck shop arms but was concerned over how a lengthened sleeve would look on a style like this. When I saw Kelly's version I was happy to give it a go.

The purrfect fabric for this is my animal mishmash that just goes purrfectly with Prttynpnk's Jungle January - in praise of textile beasties. I love the colours of this fabric and the feel is divine too.

In addition to lengthening the sleeves by 2 3/4 inches I lengthened the body by 4 3/4 inches. I also changed the hem to a "shirt tail" hemline as I like the look. I am very happy with the outcome.

I also added some stay tape to the shoulders.

Only 3 pattern pieces and one is a small neck band for the back!!

This top is so easy it practically sews itself. I can prove this - look how good it is - certainly not my sewing!!!! Sews up quick too. Just put the neckband on, sew up the sides and then attach the front cowl piece to the shoulders and sew. The hemming is what takes the longest.

Pictured with StyleArc Linda Pants

The top took 2 1/2 hours to sew. Very easy and highly recommended.

This will now be the first item for my Artisans Square SWAP 2013

I see many many more of these in my near future ...... hmm .... do I hear one pattern many looks contest???