StyleArc Marni Ponti Jacket - The Redemption - and the next McCalls 2401

Well - I am NOW one happy chook and back in love with "Marni".

The happy dance has returned.

I have stretched my skills - had some major downs but am pleased with the results. There is room for improvement but - for a first go - okay.

Still have to work out the closure so I am holding it closed.

There are a few "home made" errors that I can see but I will wear it happily.

I can't believe how well it went together - especially as I have added a bit to the pattern (all the dramas were major user error).

StyleArc patterns only allow you to purchase one size, so I chose one a couple of sizes smaller than my size (for shoulder fitting) and added an inch to the sides (which would be four inches added to chest and waist area.

I made the sleeves shorter (again user error) - but I am happy with the look of the cuffs at the end rather than folded up.

I also added a bit to the seam allowance as StyleArc only have minimal seam allowance and I read the review by Margy who said a thicker knit was difficult to get the seams to lay flat with the 3/8 inch seam allowance so I added enough to bring it up to 5/8 inch. Recommendation to anyone buying this pattern. If you are going to do it in a thicker knit and cut a more generous seam allowance - do it when cutting out the paper for the pattern I cut the pattern first and then tried to remember to cut the more generous allowance when cutting the fabric.

I also used a lot of  (well actually all of) the hints and tips on PattyE's review. There was some really great advice there complimented by several construction photos.

I really couldn't have done this jacket without the help of these lovely ladies. StyleArc do not have great instructions and I did struggle with some of them. Glad to have had read these reviews on PR.

The only problem with the pattern is that it asks you to cut 2 pairs of cuffs. But only one pair is used.

Apart from the above changes - I did nothing else. I didn't lower the bust point as I normally do. I think it looks okay where it is.

I didn't lengthen the pattern at all. I think it all hits where it should. If I were to make one to wear with trousers I would make it longer but for a dress it is good.

I did add shoulder pads.

Overall - even though I struggled with my errors, I really love this pattern. I am already planning another.

What I have learnt:

• How to do a Shawl Collar in knit
• To check all positioning and that fabric and pieces are the right way up before sewing
• How to do a split cuff
• How to cover and attach shoulder pads (not included in pattern)
• How to do a pleat and line it up (well almost line it up - that is one of my "errors" - user, not pattern error. But I did learn from it so I have included in list.
• How to sew a knit JACKET!!! Woo hoo - my first jacket. Okay okay - it is not a lined jacket with notched collar, pockets and lots of buttons etc - but it is a jacket and I am happy.
• Did I mention to check positions and sides of pattern before sewing!!!

Still need to work out the "closure" on the jacket. Bit afraid of doing a buttonhole in case I stuff it up.

Also featured in this week's line up is my latest incarnation of McCalls 2401.

I ended up with enough fabric for a dress and I am very happy with this version.

Keep in mind that the new dress is in a MUCH thicker fabric and also a thickish (tricot) lining so it is showing as a little tighter (read clingy) than the last version and it hangs a little different. I will keep this in mind for future dresses.

I was going to split the difference between the shorter version and the longer version of the dress but on advice of most commentators I bit the bullet and cut the inch off the pattern itself - hence making it shorter. I have bowed to the wisdom of the many.

I also pegged it in about half an inch on each side (2 inches in all).

In addition I added a bit of a higher back neckline and shaved an inch off the front neckline.

 Here it is in comparison to last.

If I do another scoop neck I will scoop it out even more - my next version will be a v-neck.

Higher back.

I didn't do a v-neck for this version as I am playing with the thought of a little bit of embroidery along the neckline.

I thought that before I did the pattern alteration that Carolyn advised to remove the gaping neckline, I would try and see how the lower neckline dealt with it as it only seemed to gape up high. It seemed to work. Thanks to Carolyn for the advice.

I added a tricot lining as the ponte is very thick - almost like a wool - and hence a little scratchy on my delicate skin. I top stitched the neckline and armholes.

This is how it all looks together - along with the lovely purse sent to me by Anne at Pretty Grievances. I think the gold of the purse looks lovely with the brown. I have added reptile like shoes to complete the animal accessories.

I am really liking the look of the "suit" HOWEVER....... I didn't figure into the equation the thickness of the fabric when I made it. I was so impressed by the quality of the ponte that I immediately thought of this suit.. I am thinking I will have to move to Tassy to be able to wear it. It doesn't get that cold here in Sydney and I tend to run a few degrees hotter than most people as it is. Wearing the dress and jacket together makes me feel like I am in a furnace. May feel different in the depths of winter but I doubt it. My summer and winter wardrobe usually only changes with the addition of a cardi.

Oh well - they will be good as separates.

A close up of the lovely purse. Hard to catch with the flash - it is a gorgeous gold and brown on a black background. Thanks Anne.

.


I have great plans for my TNT - I promised myself I wouldn't plan anymore. My plans seem to always come to naught. My recent sign up for the Artisan's Square SWAP is one such failed plan. Life got in the way and then I became infatuated with the TNT and my first (knit) jacket.

This plan is not a date driven one - it is just what fabric I want to use to create more dresses.

One plan I am following is the "sew your own wardrobe for a year" challenge. Vita and Natalea are hosting this challenge - to shun RTW and make it yourself. This Marni Jacket and the 2401 are my first items for this challenge.

You can read all about it here.

Hope your sewing is going well.