I read a lot of blogs.
I love reading blogs - although lately I have been so busy (and then sick) so I have been a little slack - now I have been busy catching up - on both reading and sewing.
The blogs I subscribe to meet many different needs for me. Some are for inspiration, some I just love looking at the beautiful well made clothes the author / sewist produces, some are to learn techniques, some tickle my funny bone and start my day with a smile, some are at about the same place in their journey as me, some fill many of the above at the same time. I have a handful of favourites - and they are favourites for different reasons.
One of my favourites is Diary of a Sewing Fanatic - for several reasons. Carolyn is no doubt a fantastic sewist and shows many great techniques on her blog. One of the reasons that Carolyn is a favourite is that her style is SOOOOOOOO my style (or my wanna be style!!!). Often I look at something that a sewist has made and I love it on them but know that I would not be able to wear it or it is not my style. Everything I have seen on Carolyn's blog would hang nicely in my wardrobe. I have even rushed to the keyboard and ordered the same fabric because Iwanted NEEDED that outfit she has just blogged about (are you seeing Single White Female here! Promise - I am not stalking - well only a little!) And of course her ability to work magic with her TNT.
And so starts my journey ..... no no no - not to turn myself into Carolyn (get Single White Female out of your mind!!!) but to create my own trusty dress pattern.
I started with McCalls 2401
This is an EASY shift / sheath (what is the difference??) with 3 neck lines and the 4 sleeve options. It has front and back darts (which I left out - need a waist to show a waist!!!) and bust darts (which I definitely left in - made much bigger and way lower and did an FBA). I also had to make the whole pattern much bigger as it only goes up to a size 22 and I am one or two ahem ahem sizes larger.
Here is the end result of step one in this journey. I used the bateau neckline choice but turned it into scoop as I need a lower neckline to compensate for the lower bust line.
I am happy for a first go - but it still needs work.
In enlarging the pattern I added a cm to the middle of the pattern which would have added 2 cm to the middle when cut on fold. This unfortunately made the middle of the dress too big and caused gaping at the neckline. I fixed this by adding 2 neck darts before putting on the binding. I also made the armholes too big - see gapoisis on armholes and too wide neckline.
I used the same fabric for the neck and armholes binding using the stitch in the ditch method. Unfortunately the fabric I used (which I do love) has minimum stretch so had a bit of trouble with the binding. I only used the binding because the armholes were a little low so to fold over would have made them even lower. I also added a little length and a bit of flair to the skirt taking it away from a straight skirt which makes me look a little more top heavy.
I would always wear sleeveless dresses / tops with a shrug or jacket.
This is how I would wear it:
Back
The fabric is from Vogue Fabrics America - well priced but shipping to AUS is a killer!
I am happy to have a wearable muslin (with the addition of a shrug or jacket). I did my first back slit and am happy with it (baby steps baby steps).
I must say that I was a little concerned at how a shift / sheath would look on me - I am used to princess seamed dresses that nip in and flair out and a shift type dress that I purchased a couple of years ago (and never wore) looks atrocious on me. I guess all shift shapes are not the same. Is it even a shift / sheath if I added a bit of flair?
All in all it is very comfy to wear. I may do myself some weekend versions.
Anyway - for the moment I shall call this my tried and has potential pattern (TNHP). I shall make the changes to the pattern and then I am going to make it again in the fabric that I purchased to copy the Carolyn dress. (stalking again)
BTW - I have read many times that you shouldn't use "overlocker" thread on the needles when doing hems on the coverstich machine. Now I have a combined overlocker and coverstitch machine and was painstakingly changing the needle cotton when I finished overlocking and started hemming.
As this was just going to be a muslin I thought - blow it - I am not going to change the cotton from the cones to the Gutermann..... and lo and behold ..... looks good to me. Can anyone tell me why I shouldn't be using overlocker cones.... Do you use overlocker cones when doing coverstitch hems?
I love reading blogs - although lately I have been so busy (and then sick) so I have been a little slack - now I have been busy catching up - on both reading and sewing.
The blogs I subscribe to meet many different needs for me. Some are for inspiration, some I just love looking at the beautiful well made clothes the author / sewist produces, some are to learn techniques, some tickle my funny bone and start my day with a smile, some are at about the same place in their journey as me, some fill many of the above at the same time. I have a handful of favourites - and they are favourites for different reasons.
One of my favourites is Diary of a Sewing Fanatic - for several reasons. Carolyn is no doubt a fantastic sewist and shows many great techniques on her blog. One of the reasons that Carolyn is a favourite is that her style is SOOOOOOOO my style (or my wanna be style!!!). Often I look at something that a sewist has made and I love it on them but know that I would not be able to wear it or it is not my style. Everything I have seen on Carolyn's blog would hang nicely in my wardrobe. I have even rushed to the keyboard and ordered the same fabric because I
And so starts my journey ..... no no no - not to turn myself into Carolyn (get Single White Female out of your mind!!!) but to create my own trusty dress pattern.
I started with McCalls 2401
This is an EASY shift / sheath (what is the difference??) with 3 neck lines and the 4 sleeve options. It has front and back darts (which I left out - need a waist to show a waist!!!) and bust darts (which I definitely left in - made much bigger and way lower and did an FBA). I also had to make the whole pattern much bigger as it only goes up to a size 22 and I am one or two ahem ahem sizes larger.
Here is the end result of step one in this journey. I used the bateau neckline choice but turned it into scoop as I need a lower neckline to compensate for the lower bust line.
I am happy for a first go - but it still needs work.
In enlarging the pattern I added a cm to the middle of the pattern which would have added 2 cm to the middle when cut on fold. This unfortunately made the middle of the dress too big and caused gaping at the neckline. I fixed this by adding 2 neck darts before putting on the binding. I also made the armholes too big - see gapoisis on armholes and too wide neckline.
I used the same fabric for the neck and armholes binding using the stitch in the ditch method. Unfortunately the fabric I used (which I do love) has minimum stretch so had a bit of trouble with the binding. I only used the binding because the armholes were a little low so to fold over would have made them even lower. I also added a little length and a bit of flair to the skirt taking it away from a straight skirt which makes me look a little more top heavy.
I would always wear sleeveless dresses / tops with a shrug or jacket.
This is how I would wear it:
Back
The fabric is from Vogue Fabrics America - well priced but shipping to AUS is a killer!
I am happy to have a wearable muslin (with the addition of a shrug or jacket). I did my first back slit and am happy with it (baby steps baby steps).
I must say that I was a little concerned at how a shift / sheath would look on me - I am used to princess seamed dresses that nip in and flair out and a shift type dress that I purchased a couple of years ago (and never wore) looks atrocious on me. I guess all shift shapes are not the same. Is it even a shift / sheath if I added a bit of flair?
All in all it is very comfy to wear. I may do myself some weekend versions.
Anyway - for the moment I shall call this my tried and has potential pattern (TNHP). I shall make the changes to the pattern and then I am going to make it again in the fabric that I purchased to copy the Carolyn dress. (stalking again)
BTW - I have read many times that you shouldn't use "overlocker" thread on the needles when doing hems on the coverstich machine. Now I have a combined overlocker and coverstitch machine and was painstakingly changing the needle cotton when I finished overlocking and started hemming.
As this was just going to be a muslin I thought - blow it - I am not going to change the cotton from the cones to the Gutermann..... and lo and behold ..... looks good to me. Can anyone tell me why I shouldn't be using overlocker cones.... Do you use overlocker cones when doing coverstitch hems?
Nice start! Once you get the few adjustments made I think this will be perfect! I often leave out darts that I feel would accentuate my middle, and I'm finding more and more I need at least a little bit of something there. I think you might have followed my own tendency on this one. :-) Nice fabric too
ReplyDeleteLooks fabulous with the cardi! Re the overlocker thread...I use gutermann usually. But I don't have a combined c/s overlocker. I think you should do whatever you like. :D
ReplyDeleteI like this dress. It looks good on you. The difference between shift/sheath is one hangs from your bust and shoulders and the other fits a bit closer - I don't know which is which. I am, however, in search of the perfect pattern for myself.
ReplyDeleteAs for the overlocker - I know you shouldn't use sewing thread on the overlocker because sewing thread is generally thicker than overlocker thread. But the difference between overlocking and coverstitch, no idea. g
Hello Beverley, I am glad you are feeling better. The dress is lovely with the cardigan over it. Your body looks fairly straight to me, and, having a straight body myself (except I am a petite), know that patterns, especially New Look and Butterick are always cut out wide under the armhole. But once you sort that out you'll have a great pattern for a sheath/shift.
ReplyDeleteAren't you glad you made a "wearable muslin"? The fabric is beautiful and the dress looks very stylish on you! The jacket looks nice both tied and untied.
ReplyDeleteWay to go BeaJay. Great progress on your TNT. Love the fabric and the look with the cardi/jacket, both ways.
ReplyDeleteYou have picked a great dress to become your TNT, good luck with it! I think your muslin looks more than wearable and the fabric is gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteWow, that is a good look. SO close to nailing the fit too! :)
ReplyDeleteMaxi-lock in the coverstitch works just fine for me. It's the cheaper stuff that snaps easily. At least that what I find works with my Brother coverstitch machine in both needles and loopers. Gutermann is fine too.
ReplyDeleteI really like how your dress looks with the short sleeve cardi.
Hooray, great to see you back. Love the dress and shrug a really nice style for you, looking forward to the blue version. Cannot help you on the coverstitch machine question. Im going to look up them up, as I havent heard of them. Im guessing they are a some sort of combined overlocker/sewing machine?
ReplyDeleteHi Louise, coverstitch does double or triple rows of stitches for hems. Tha is the main use. You will see it on the bottom of you purchased knit clothes.
DeletePennies dropped! Like on RTW T shirts, nice professional finish.
DeleteI use serger thread in my coverstitch all the time. I use Wooly Nylon in the looper.
ReplyDeleteI find using a pattern four sizes smaller than my actual size and then about three or four inches below my bust I start heading towards my actual size. I find I often need a larger size on my back than my front. We are close in size and build.
ReplyDeleteApparently the difference between a shift and sheath dress is that a sheath dress has a waist seam and a shift does not. Which makes yours a shift I think! And a great first go at a shift pattern as well!
ReplyDeleteA shift is less fitted, and obviously flattering on you. Good job on the road to TNT.
ReplyDeleteI'm excited for you! I read Carolyn's blog too, of course, and have often envied her possession of her TNT dress pattern. I love the look with the cardi ends tied. Good luck! I'm looking forward to reading about your progress.
ReplyDeleteSheath dresses have a close fit with almost pencil like skirt.
ReplyDeleteShift dresses have a much relaxed fit throughout, with A line or skirts with more flare.
Yours look like a shift dress to me. And Beajay, I love your new dress.. It looks stylish, esp with the cardigan, it looks so put together!
Haven't heard of using separate thread for the CS.. I use maxilock on both.
Your dress is really pretty but I think you made it too big. I started out doing the same thing because I too am very thick in the middle. Go down to the size that fits you in the neck and the shoulders. Then you can add width to the side seams, starting beneath the underarm. I usually add an inch to each side piece, but if you tissue fit it you will see how much you need. Then you may be able to leave some of the darts in for a little more shaping. I (sadly) am far from needing an FBA, so I have no advice on that point. I look forward to seeing your next version!
ReplyDeleteThis dress looks really good on you. True, there is some extra width that can be taken out next time. I agree with Angela's suggestion for adding width under the arms. That's worked best for me.
ReplyDeleteYour Plus Size Pattern Pyramid has made its way from KC to me. I'll be adding several patterns and posting it on my blog soon. Fun!
Hi Beajay.
ReplyDeleteGreat start. This is a good TNHP.
Looks great with your cardi.
We can shape it some more when you have time.
You are such an absolute darling and you know I am going to take you up on your offer. Great to have a sewing friend like you.
DeleteGood for you BeaJay for working towards a TNT pattern. This is something I also would love to do and envy those who have done it. I'm like you with preferring to wear sleeves... although it's been so so hot here I have done it a few times and then just think well if they don't like don't look LOL. I'm loving this dress with your cardi too and love it with the ties hanging down and tied up. Having them hanging down gives you a longer line. I too love Vogue fabrics and know what you mean about the freight. I also love Georgeous Fabrics but the cost of the freight is a bit of a turn off for these sites. Ah well if we love the fabric enough we'll always pay what ever it takes to get it into our hot little hands and under our sewing machines LOL. Have fun working on your TNT and looking forward to seeing your next version :)
ReplyDeleteGood job. It looks very nice with the cardigan. I like patterns with simple lines like that because you can use them over and over do different things with them. The problem I have with having a few TNT patterns is that I rely on the too much and don't use the new patterns that I just HAD TO buy. :-)
ReplyDeleteLate to the party - I broke down and went back to Google Reader. I have this pattern too! You did such a nice job on your first pass. I know you will come up with a fabulous TNT. Definitely will be fun to see your progress.
ReplyDeleteLooking good, BeaJay! Once you make the changes to your paper pattern under the arms you should be on your way to pumping out lots of duplicate shifts in loads of flattering colors and motifs. Even though you may end up with a perfected pattern every fabric will have it's own challenges and not perform like the previous one. It can be a real headache but worth the thinking time before you cut the fabric. I use only Maxi Lock serger thread in my coverstitch, changing to regular poly sewing thread is not as nice but sometimes necessary for matching client's projects.
ReplyDelete