Sunday 12 August 2012

Where did I go wrong?

I'll tell you .... sizing. (Well - that is one of the areas anyway). It gets the better of me. I remember blogging my first finished garment (after all - it wasn't that long ago :-). Sherril commented "You are using a much too large pattern. Do a search for full-bust adjustment. Then get a few fitting books like Fit for Real People". So I learnt about choosing smaller patterns and doing FBAs. 

My first finished garment was a size 32 (according to my full bust measurement)...... The Abby cardigan a size 28 (according to my high bust measurement) and I am still having trouble with fit. You can see the back is still too big in the Abby cardi (prior post). So what I did was cut up one of my RTW tops and put it over the pattern and this is the result..




Now the pattern below does has a seam allowance - however the seam allowance is minimal (less than a centimetre). I have traced out the RTW top and that will become my sloper to put onto any knit pattern to see sizing. This will certainly help me to choose which size to cut and any grading. I am sure that there are more professional ways of doing this - tape measures and measurements etc, but measuring is not my strong suite. Now I feel a bit more confident making tops.

12 comments:

  1. Fitting is an issue for most of us I think. If you have a generous bust (and I do) it seems to change everything. What an amazing comparison and the pattern is for your high bust measurement as well. Look at the differences around the shoulders and armholes. No wonder we struggle with fit. I think you are on the right track, just a matter of working out just what your size is around your shoulders/arms/neck and you should have a better starting point. I think! Will be following closely to see how you get on. Good luck.

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  2. Great idea! Fit is definately the hardest thing to get right (though I do think as sewists we do tend to be a bit too hard on ourselves) and being able to compare a new pattern to a TNT or sloper pattern helps so much!

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  3. I've had a week of fit issues- I need FBA guidance, I do so many boxy garments, I need to step up my fitting.

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    1. I used Palmer / Pletch DVD - Full Busted - when I did my red dress. I need DVDs as I cant' seem to translate pictures into reality - I need to see it done. It is a great DVD and I highly recommend it.

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  4. You have done exactly the right thing! Remember my recent rant about fitting instead of pattern making? Perfect example. Your sloper is a brilliant idea. Just watch the relative stretchiness of fabrics chosen compared to the one you cut up. I made that mistake once - used a very stretchy top as a pattern for a not so stretchy fabric and the resulting top fits me like a compression stocking hehehe.

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  5. I think you've hit on a really good solution!
    btw shams, of Communing with Fabric, has absolutely terrific tips for FBA on her blog, very clearly explained and well worth checking out :)

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    1. Thanks Carolyn, I follow Shams and will check it out.

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  6. Ah yes, the difference between what the pattern maker thinks and reality - as you may have realised, this is something that plagues me too. At least now you have a basis to go on - shame you had to ruin a shirt to get it though.

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  7. Hi! I've just found your blog and have been reading a few posts. I just had to stop and comment about this idea. I think it is Fabulous! I'm going to use one of my RTW tops for the same thing. Thank you!

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  8. Hi! I've just found your blog and have been reading a few posts. I just had to stop and comment about this idea. I think it is Fabulous! I'm going to use one of my RTW tops for the same thing. Thank you!

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