Butterick 5863 -The reverse Toile - aka - what not to do.

The first cut is the deepest

Before I get into my finished items I want to say I was wowed by the response to my last post.
An amazing 138 people voted on my haircut.... I don't even know 138 people. I apologise to anyone who had a massive time suck playing with hairstyles on Taaz.com after reading my post (along with pinterest, facebook, blogger, twitter etc it is a wonder the world still rotates and things still get done.)

So - did I get my haircut and who am I sporting? Yes the cut has happened......

I really really really wanted Lisa. I have never had my hair in a style like that and haven't had a fringe since I was a teenager...... only a few short years ago....... My hairdresser recommended against it. She said my hair is too curly for that short a cut at the front and it would take maintenance to kept it looking good. That unless I used product and straightened it each wash it would go woolley. I didn't want to risk it as I had never been to this hairdresser before, she is relatively cheap and I have never seen customers in her salon... Hmm as Alison said to me - not very good signs.....

I ended up with a kind of frankencut - a mix of Sarah on the top and Lisa on the bottom,,,, Kind of.

Before and after

I actually really like my cut and once I wash it I will know if I will keep it. Good on the hairdresser. She turned out to be a find I think.

Back to sewing

When my Pretty Grievances Sabertooth Swap partner Barbara Jane sent me this beautiful beefy knit I was drawn to Butterick 5863. I thought it plain enough to let the fabric speak for itself but also have an interesting neckline.

Now - me being me, I decided to "adjust" the one thing that drew it to me - the neckline. I always find necklines too high and narrow for my big neck so I always make them lower and wider...........

Hmm - did you happen to notice how low and wide the neckline is on the model?

This is what it turned out like..... (and haircut after 2 days)

Not bad for a street walker but not exactly the look I was going for. Luckily Addicted to Fabric (where Barbara Jane purchased the fabric) had 1 lonely metre left and waiting just for me - talk about luck! After exchange of emails and phone calls that lonely remnant has a home and is waiting to be a fixed Butterick 5863. I am so glad as I love this top and the fabric is wonderful and the colours really look good on me if I might say so myself. StyleArc had a great khaki bengaline that would match beautifully but it sold out before I could get my grubby mits on it... *sigh* ..... I am hoping for more stock soon.

I did modify the top in other ways too. I made the sleeves longer and added length to the body as well.

I am modelling it with a pair of modified Linda pants in an absolutely gorgeous navy hybrid crepe from Emma One Sock. I LOVE this fabric. I have it in a multitude of colours and it will play a big part in my Artisan Square SWAP. It is not cheap, especially when you factor shipping to Australia into the price, but well worth the cost IMO. It feels divine, hangs beautifully and has my favourite thing in the material world - stretch.

Navy is not what I would normally pair with this top but I was being frugal with my modelling as my visiting sister was taking pics for me. I say these are modified Lindas as I gave them a little flare at the bottom. I like the way they turned out.

Anyhow, after the Gulf of Mexico neckline (or should I call it the Great Australian Bight), I thought I had better do a toile - after the horse has bolted so to speak. I used fabric that I purchased on sale and very cheap from the Remnant Warehouse. It was about half the price it is now when I purchased 5 metres of it.


Being photobombed by Elle

 Back of top and pants - haircut has held up well for 2 days.

Next step will be to add maybe another cm to the neckline and then to remake the Sabretooth top.

I am looking forward to finishing it and adding it to my wardrobe and also seeing how Barbara Jane transformed the fabric I sent her.

Happy sewing.

Jungle January and the Sabertooth Swap.

The drought has broken.

It really took some doing to get my sewjo mojo a flowing. After so long with problems with my knee and our cold winter I lost the momentum with sewing. I did quite a bit of cutting and just a little sewing but really couldn't get my act together.

It took a great day at Tessutis with my sewing buddies (and Jungle January) to re-ignite my mojo. I took 3 items already cut out and ready to sew. At Tessutis I did the sewing of the seams on all 3, so all I had to do was the finishing - binding / hemming etc. The items made up so quickly and it really made me want to sew again.

In a beautiful navy hybrid crepe from EmmaOneSock I cut a Jalie 8 gore skirt and a pair of StyleArc Linda Pants. These are part of my Artisan's Square SWAP. These will be photographed when I finish some matching tops.

In a lovely fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics I had a cut out dress from McCalls 5890. This is fabric I first saw on the lovely and talented Thornberry and HAD. TO. HAVE! With its fun scales it fits right into the Jungle. If you like anything animal head over to Pretty Grievances and check out the cat walk before the cruise ends. Yes - it's Jungle January.

It is quite a heavy ponte so will be put in the safari suitcase and pulled out in winter.

Of course I will wear it with a jacket or cardigan like below - but I am thinking more of the Orange StyleArc Fiona I have planned. There are touches of orange in the fabric but maybe full on Orange will be too much. I will have to look when I get the Fiona sewn.

Overall I am happy with the dress.

Oh - and btw - look at what Santa brought me.

This is so much better than the little cutting mats that I used before. Longer than my dining table. No more shuffling little boards around. It was purchased here and is 1.8m x 0.9m (or 71" X 36" for those not in cms). I was able to pick it up at Yagoona so even saved on the shipping.

On the cutting table....

I have some gorgeous fabric from The Remnant Warehouse. It is a Spirograph bengaline. It is more of a wedgwood colour than the aqua in the picture and quite beefy. The feel is lovely and it is a reversible jacquard - although I am only going to use one side (Can't decide which one though). I did purchase some of the red (which is less orange than in the pic on their website) for a dress and may use both sides of that one.

Although this is a departure from my A.S. SWAP, I can't help it - the fabric is crying out to be a pair of summer capris.

Also on the table is a lacy (from the remnants warehouse) little jardi. Short sleeved for summer. You can see the fabric in the pic of the cutting board but if you want a closer look you can find it here.

The lovely Anne at Pretty Grievances also gave me my Sabertooth SWAP partner. This is where we swap animal print fabric with a partner who then makes an item with it.

It was really exciting to receive fabric from Barbara at Barbara Jane Made. (And great to find another Aussie sewist). Barbara gifted me this lovely knit (and 2 spools of matching cotton - oh yeah!) and now I am deciding on what to make of it. It is thick without being too hot like ponte and has a nice recovery.

These are my picks. I can either make a top or use it for panels in a dress. I am leaning towards the top in the lower left corner.

Wish me luck.

Now before I go I want to share a tip I read on Sewing on the Edge. This tip is sure to CHANGE MY LIFE!!!!!! At the moment I and sitting in the loungeroom having a rest after the mammoth task of ironing steam a seam on the neckline and armholes of a dress (believe me - it is a mammoth task - especially in today's heat). Using Barbara's tip I shouldn't have to do that anymore. If you are one of the few who don't follow her or if you missed the post -  check it out.

P.S. I wrote this yesterday but hadn't taken the pics. The temperature has dropped 18 degrees celsius today (that is over 64 degrees fahrenheit) and it is actually cool - hallelujah.

Happy Australia Day to my fellow Aussies

Have a good sewing day.

Proportionately problematic pants and Cate makes another creative appearance

I need pants / trousers / slacks - whatever you want to call them.

So I thought that I would try Patternmaker where you put your measurements into the computer and it spits out a pattern tailored to your own measurements. Easy peasy lemon squeezy - only minimal adjustments needed - if at all......????!!!!

Here is my problem... *sigh*

This is me...

So Patternmaker - along with 95% of pant manufacturers - thinks that I have large legs to fit my large stomach.

Here is what it came up with. I have sacrificed my favourite RTW black slacks to use to compare. They were starting to get threadbare so I desperately need new ones.

Notice that the waist measurements are good - there is only seam allowance and elastic casing allowance showing.

Pretty good for a computer program ... Now it all goes pear shaped --- hmmmm literally pear shaped.

Now this is just the back - the front is the same which means that the legs would be way to big - not to mention the crotch - what is with that?? Hate to think the impact of that!! I think I would end up looking like a homie (male gang member).

Anyway - I have spent my short sewing history making patterns bigger - now I thought about making this smaller but then read Sham's account of her Linda Pants.

Now Shams doesn't have near as much difference between her waist and thighs as I do - but the thought is the same. Why try to grade down the whole pattern based on my waist measurement - why not just add room for the tum?

Hence it began.

First I ordered a StyleArc Linda in size 24 (which believe me - is way smaller than the size recommended for my waist - I won't tell you what size that is because it isn't even on their list!!!!!  (note to self - stop snacking on the cheese and biscuits).

Then I did a full tummy adjustment (sounds like you have pulled down your fly zip after a yummy meal - and who hasn't done that - common fess up!!) - not actually according to my body measurements but according to the measurements of aforementioned favourite pull on black pants as the first pair I wanted to make was in similar fabric.

I used the techniques shown in the book - Dressmaking to flatter your shape - Lorna Knight

I was going to type out the instructions for the adjustment but you really need the corresponding pictures.

This is how mine ended up.

This is the amount that I ended up adding to the waist area - this is times 2  - but keeping in mind that this is a light jersey knit fabric that will be used

I added the amount that I added to the front to the waistband

Supervisory special cat Elle - ensuring all is above board

This resulted in the caramel coloured jersey pants shown here. I am very happy with these pants and have worn them many times.

Now I wanted a pair in a lovely bottom weight RPL acquired through the amazing EmmaOneSock - got to love her fabrics - though the shipping to AUS is a killer.

Now - this RPL has a slight stretch (the good friend of the big tummy) but no where near the stretch of the jersey (BFF) .... and remembering my horror of not taking into consideration the different stretches in fabric - I thought body measurements were called for.

This resulted in me adding 6 cms to each pattern piece (a total of 24 cm - and this is in addition to my first adjustments - yikes!!) I just added it using my curve ruler. This way - if I make any more jersey versions (and I will) I will just fold it out.

The below technique was something I just tacked on and is not as good as the snip and spread method in the  book as that method actually puts room at the stomach where I needed it. Adding to the side also doesn't add to the crotch line and you may end up in a bit of pain!!

The downward slant of the added piece caused a bit of a problem - to be rectified for next pair

I also then needed to add this amount to the waistband - although I ended up reducing it a bit as the waistband ended up a little large.

The results (as shown with another version of StyleArc's Creative Cate top. I LOVE this pattern - although the seemingly diagonal animal print of my last version is a bit more flattering than the below "stripes").

Note - both legs looked the correct length in the mirror - I think that a shoe may have sunk a little in the ground making one leg seem too long - but I will check it out on solid ground later.

The top is made with fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics (yikes - also painful in the shipping costs) - I am quite happy about how I lined up the "stripes" from front to back (although in the interests of public health I refuse to show a side shot). I also debated on where to put the colours. I strategically put the darkest stripe across my biggest part - hoping that it would camouflage somewhat - and lo and behold - it seemed to work.

In the spirit of helping my larger sewing sisters decide whether to choose this pattern - here is the front of the pants (quelle horreur - save yourself - look away now)

Now there is no way a body like mine will produce a smooth line in pants - get over it Beverley - it ain't gonna happen - so I am actually very pleased with the result. The pants are very comfy.

The back...

Now plead for mercy all you want - I'm going to show it anyway - here is the pants bot bot.. I do however refuse to put it in "extra large" format - it is large enough as it is.

The little downward slant on the waistband is caused by the aforementioned downward slant on my pattern alteration.

All in all I am extremely happy with this whole outfit and it will definitely go into rotation (another 2 for the sewloutions jar). And it will be a part of my Artisans Square SWAP. I will end up with lots of mix and match separates.

Next on the radar is another animal print top for Jungle January - this time a peplum - Vogue 8815 already cut and basted for trial - yes I am going to give Cate a short rest but I am sure she will make another appearance before the end of Jan for one pattern many looks competition (and because I lurve her - she is such a nice pattern).

Then the draw for Plus Sized Pattern Pyramid.- don't forget to tell your friends and put it on your blog - spread the word,

StyleArc Creative Cate Top - Jungle January

Jungle January has jumped onto the calendar and here is my first item to parade:

The Creative Cate Top from StyleArc patterns.

Many people have reviewed this top on PR however I was a little concerned that it would suit me. My main concern was the sleeve length. I need sleeves to hide the tuck shop arms but was concerned over how a lengthened sleeve would look on a style like this. When I saw Kelly's version I was happy to give it a go.

The purrfect fabric for this is my animal mishmash that just goes purrfectly with Prttynpnk's Jungle January - in praise of textile beasties. I love the colours of this fabric and the feel is divine too.

In addition to lengthening the sleeves by 2 3/4 inches I lengthened the body by 4 3/4 inches. I also changed the hem to a "shirt tail" hemline as I like the look. I am very happy with the outcome.

I also added some stay tape to the shoulders.

Only 3 pattern pieces and one is a small neck band for the back!!

This top is so easy it practically sews itself. I can prove this - look how good it is - certainly not my sewing!!!! Sews up quick too. Just put the neckband on, sew up the sides and then attach the front cowl piece to the shoulders and sew. The hemming is what takes the longest.

Pictured with StyleArc Linda Pants

The top took 2 1/2 hours to sew. Very easy and highly recommended.

This will now be the first item for my Artisans Square SWAP 2013

I see many many more of these in my near future ...... hmm .... do I hear one pattern many looks contest???