Tuesday, 12 February 2013

Heeeeeeeeelp - Vogue 8815

Recently I went through the Craftsy course on design and fitting plus sized patterns using Vogue 8815. Now I found the class great - however did not finish it. I cheated and went "straight to the back of the book". ( I will go back and finish - I promise)

I did do all of the pattern alterations with the class but skipped the fitting and sewing bits (I know - I know - how is a girl to learn - it is something I admonish my students for*sigh*).

Anyway - I did have some fitting issues. I know that I should take my high bust measurements and do an FBA - however I was so busy concentrating and "dancing along with the show" that I put in my full bust measurements when told to and hence the top was way too big. I ended up taking out 6 of the inches I put in to change it from a size 24 to a size Beverley.

I also didn't like how high the neckline was so lowered it - umm - somewhat too much - *blush*. Because of the too large sizing I ended up with a massive width in the neckline too - so I put some gathers in to take it in.

The armholes are too big and the waist too low in my opinion (what do you think about the waist height??) - but this is just the toile and I know what I need to do for the real one/s.

Overall (with the changes mentioned and the neckline raised an inch or so) I am happy with the pattern..........

(Pictured with my latest incarnation of Linda Pants - yes yes yes - they ARE black - your eyes do no deceive you - and I did say I am steering away from my comfortable black - however a gal HAS to have SOME black!!! They replace the pair I cut up)

As stated - I do like it - with one exception - the dreaded neckband.

The pattern itself doesn't have a neckband. I included it because I cut the neckline too low. Can you image it without a neckband!!!!

Pride goeth before a fall - you may remember a previous post where I was crowing about conquering a neckband...

Hmmmmm - not so much now - you can see how it "flip flops" over the place: *** Please advert gaze from cleavage - I did say I cut it a little low **** (oh the pictures a girl has to take and put on the interwebs for advice......)

Now - I think my problem is the fabric. I cut the band an inch and a half shorter than the top and tried to stretch the band as I sewed between quarter pins like usual - but alas - there is very little stretch in this fabric. It is classed as ITY with 92% poly and 8% lycra but I think the lycra was stolen in a raid on the factory. The stretch is almost non existent. It didn't work trying to stretch it between the pins. I ended up "tacking" it by hand and easing the fabric into the neckband. That worked until I sewed it and - well - let's just say it is a little limp...

So heeeeeeeeeeelp - what do I do? I think this needs to be treated as a woven. I don't have enough fabric to cut another band. It definitely needs a band - otherwise I might be arrested if I wear it in public. 

It is a toile and therefore supposedly a contender for waddersville - but I quite like it despite it's faults and would like to wear it - maybe even *gasp* in public... dare I say it - maybe even to work if I can fix it.

It was the toile for the wine coloured cheater I was going to submit to Jungle January - but time ran out.

What can I do - any advice welcome.


  1. I don't admonish a girl who shouldn't wear black pants if it's not their colour. There I've said it.
    If the neckline is limp, thread elastic into the neckband and see if it draws the neckline in and possibly raises it above the 'girls'.

  2. Straight to the back of the book - I love it!!! Who can resist the temptation to have a peek and jump the boring bits???

    I do think we all need one (or two) pairs of black pants in the wardrobe. They definitely are a great go-to with a super top like this one. The first two pictures of the top look good on you. The height of the neckline in the original pattern would be too high for you, so dropping it was a smart move - a bit of skin between your neck and 'the girl's is flattering on you - I remember a red dress you made that I thought was stunning on you and it had a lower v-neckline!!! My only other idea would be to lower it even further (!!!) and wear a bright cammi underneath for a pop of colour. As you can see, styling isn't my forte...

    Don't think I can help you with the neckband, but I am keen to read what others suggest - I have had this same problem in the past!

    Definitely don't toss this, try to adjust the neckband, as the fabric is most flattering on you...J

  3. I love this top on you and I don't think a girl can have too many pairs of black pants. They're a great starting point for lots of different styling. Plenty of opportunity to add colour in the top half. Just about every top I make/buy falls down at the front and reveals more than I am prepared to do. Now I could/should work out what the problem is and fix it BUT what I have is an assortment of round-neck sleeveless tops that are slim-fitting and in colours to match my bottoms (mainly pants). I would never wear them on their own, but as a layering piece they are perfect under a top that sits too low. Without any left-over fabric to re-cut the neck binding, I reckon that would be a quick and easy fix.

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  5. We all need black pants and you are onto a real winner with that pattern!
    The easiest thing I can think off with the neckband is maybe to add a small modesty panel out of a contrasting fabric. If you have more time/enthusiasm you could unpick the neckband and change it to a contrasting fabric and then use the old neckband to make a small modesty panel, not sure what that would look like? It's looking good though and even if you left it as is, it would make a nice evening/going out top :)

  6. I don't have much advice - I'm not very knowledgeable! The fabric is lovely, and I like the way it 'skims'.

    I actually like this neckline. It may be lower than your usual, but I think it's far from obscene ;-)

    It's a flattering style for you. I think if you make it again, a smaller size will bring the armholes in and narrow the silhouette nicely. This should also move the waist up a little.

  7. I kinda love it. My suggestion is to take the band off and put a black one on made form soemthing with more stretch in it. Then you can draw the nekline up some more with the stretch. It's not really that much too low, just an inch or so is all it takes. Rememer that you get the birdseye view!
    CAn i convince you to make it more fitting, in the enxt version due to lack of stretch in this one? Why not rock some of those curves!! :)

  8. I like this top especially the waistline which I think is just right on you. I also like the deeper neckline. I agree with Mrs C about it the being more fitted. From what I can see your armholes look okay, the excess fabric is around your bust area. If you are going to treat it as a woven and making it more fitted over bust arms etc, dont forget you may need to add a zip at the side or back, so you can get it over the girls. Now the neckline. I would put a stretch edging on it not too heavy, you could wear a layer underneath like a sleeveless camisole to cover the girls, but I really like deep v necks and scoop necks on you.

  9. I think this top looks fine on you as is. As as for black pants...they are far enough away from your face that 'reflection' isn't an issue! This combination looks like one of those great 'just throw it on and look pulled together' outfits! Can never have too many of those!

  10. It would be difficult, I think, if not impossible, to make a band lay smoothly around such a steep curve, even one with a lot of stretch. You could take small darts around that front curve, tapering to nothing at the seamline. That would pull it in to lay flatter around your chest. Otherwise, I would wear a black tank underneath.

  11. I came over to suggest a black band out of something stretchier, but someone has beat me to it! So I will put in a second vote in favor or that option. It's at least worth a try- it can always be ripped out later!

  12. Okay - I'm not reading any of the other comments first - just plodding forward with my opinion. Remember I'm not great at fixing something after the fact. From looking at the photos - I think above the waist the top needs to be a bit more fitted. Take the sides in just a smidge. Can you take just the center front of the binding off and gather it to the top - ala the sunshine top? I think the waist is where is should be. g

  13. I've saved many a neckline with elastic, maybe as wide as the band, not too tight. Then go back to class young lady and do that FBA!

  14. Oh so many great tips from everyone. Love the idea of adding in a modesty panel, as well as replacing the band with another fabric. Another idea could be (if the arm holes are low enough) is to remove the neckband and the sleeves and take in the seam on the shoulders as this would also raise the neckline... it would also raise the waistline as well though. I too made this top and lowered the neckline and the waistline as I thought both were a little high on me. I made mine as a muslin but was lucky enough to have the muslin turn out as a wearable. I did enjoy this class and I actually watched the whole class while waiting for my pattern to arrive (several weeks as I'm in Australia) so had plenty of time. This is how mine turned out if you want to have a peak http://chrislucas.com.au/posts/vogue-8815-peplum-all-seamed-up-and-completed/

    1. Hey Chris - I saw your lovely version. That is how I found your blog. Very nice.

    2. Thanks BeaJay and I'm so glad you did and I also got to find your blog... so many more benefits to Craftsy than just the classes LOL

  15. Drats! I really like in a print. I am with the others on e modesty panel. I think the waist is good where it is. I am taking this class to and totally understand why you were ready to skip to the back of the book. :-)

  16. I like the waist where it is. If it is higher, it might blouse out more and look less attractive. How about adding some binding to the neckline and wear a lacy camisole underneath - or sew a fake one out of cotton jersey and lace and sew it to the wrong side of the neckline?

  17. Thanks for posting about this top. I, too, have gotten about 1/2 way through that Craftsy course - it's great information, but I've just wandered off. Crafting ADD. I think it's because I'm not convinced that pattern will suit my apple-shaped body. I really like your top, though, and we're fairly similar in build (I'm just MUCH shorter!) so I can see that it will be worth my while to finish the course and sew the top.

    About the neckline - I like it lower, but I would swap out that floppy band and replace it with a black one (or some other contrast colour) in a stretchy fabric.

    I like where the waist is hitting you, but like others have said, I'd sew a smaller size next time with an FBA.

    I LOVE the Linda pants. You are really working that pattern! Awesome!

  18. Hi BeaJay!
    I can't see much about the fit, because of the busy print... but with regards to the neckband: If the fabric is not stretchy enough to stretch-to-fit while you are sewing it in, the only alternative is to run a gathering stitch around the neckline of the garment, along the lowest swing of the curve, and gather it up evenly to fit your neckband. This way, you end up with a gently gathered front, into a smooth neckband.
    It's a pity you cannot get any more of that fabric... to fix the "too low" neckline (and really, I don't think yours is *too* low :) but you can just wear it over a black cami if you are concerned ) then I would suggest cutting a new, SHAPED neckband and facing, (shaped like the letter "U") widening at the lowest point of the curve, and narrowing at each side to up where it meets the shoulder seam and into the back of the neck; where you would have the joining seam. I know this advice doesn't help for this top if you can't get more fabric (sorry) but just a suggestion to consider for future tops.

  19. Oh, I meant to add; your black pants look terrific!! Fit perfection! Do NOT apologise for rocking a garment like that :)

  20. As someone who is well into double digits when it comes to the number of black pants she owns, I'm not saying a thing on that score.
    As for the top? I love it on you - you need to save it! I think the suggestion of trying to gather in the neckband is a good one. You could also try removing it and using it just at the bottom of the neckline for a modestly panel - this is something I've done for Mum a number of times but rather than a straight across modesty panel, I've usually used an angled piece on each side (that probably makes no sense - I've got pics if you need to see it), so that it doesn't really look like a modesty panel. I third the idea for a more fitted waist too. I like where the waist is but I really have no idea if it would look better higher or not.

  21. You can never have too many pairs of black pants. I think your top looks good (great print) and you would do well in saving it. I agree with the other comments about trying a contrast band or gathering it a bit to fit a slightly smaller band. I think the waist is fine.

  22. Hi! As for the neckband....sometimes a knit has more stretch crosswise than lengthwise (2 way vs. 4 way stretch knit) so maybe if you cut it a different direction? Knits are tricky, right? I love reading your blog. You crack me up!

  23. I really like this top on you and hopefully out of the helpful comments above you can save it. I prefer the waistband on the waist like you have it the proportion is much better. Don't apologies for the black pants, you know my colours and I have black pants and skirts in my wardrobe :)


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