Tuesday, 12 February 2013
Heeeeeeeeelp - Vogue 8815
Recently I went through the Craftsy course on design and fitting plus sized patterns using Vogue 8815. Now I found the class great - however did not finish it. I cheated and went "straight to the back of the book". ( I will go back and finish - I promise)
I did do all of the pattern alterations with the class but skipped the fitting and sewing bits (I know - I know - how is a girl to learn - it is something I admonish my students for*sigh*).
Anyway - I did have some fitting issues. I know that I should take my high bust measurements and do an FBA - however I was so busy concentrating and "dancing along with the show" that I put in my full bust measurements when told to and hence the top was way too big. I ended up taking out 6 of the inches I put in to change it from a size 24 to a size Beverley.
I also didn't like how high the neckline was so lowered it - umm - somewhat too much - *blush*. Because of the too large sizing I ended up with a massive width in the neckline too - so I put some gathers in to take it in.
The armholes are too big and the waist too low in my opinion (what do you think about the waist height??) - but this is just the toile and I know what I need to do for the real one/s.
Overall (with the changes mentioned and the neckline raised an inch or so) I am happy with the pattern..........
(Pictured with my latest incarnation of Linda Pants - yes yes yes - they ARE black - your eyes do no deceive you - and I did say I am steering away from my comfortable black - however a gal HAS to have SOME black!!! They replace the pair I cut up)
As stated - I do like it - with one exception - the dreaded neckband.
The pattern itself doesn't have a neckband. I included it because I cut the neckline too low. Can you image it without a neckband!!!!
Pride goeth before a fall - you may remember a previous post where I was crowing about conquering a neckband...
Hmmmmm - not so much now - you can see how it "flip flops" over the place: *** Please advert gaze from cleavage - I did say I cut it a little low **** (oh the pictures a girl has to take and put on the interwebs for advice......)
Now - I think my problem is the fabric. I cut the band an inch and a half shorter than the top and tried to stretch the band as I sewed between quarter pins like usual - but alas - there is very little stretch in this fabric. It is classed as ITY with 92% poly and 8% lycra but I think the lycra was stolen in a raid on the factory. The stretch is almost non existent. It didn't work trying to stretch it between the pins. I ended up "tacking" it by hand and easing the fabric into the neckband. That worked until I sewed it and - well - let's just say it is a little limp...
So heeeeeeeeeeelp - what do I do? I think this needs to be treated as a woven. I don't have enough fabric to cut another band. It definitely needs a band - otherwise I might be arrested if I wear it in public.
It is a toile and therefore supposedly a contender for waddersville - but I quite like it despite it's faults and would like to wear it - maybe even *gasp* in public... dare I say it - maybe even to work if I can fix it.
It was the toile for the wine coloured cheater I was going to submit to Jungle January - but time ran out.
What can I do - any advice welcome.